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Parts needed for 1971 220D

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dcashour's picture
Belmar, NJ
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1983 240D
1999 E300 Turbo Diesel

In my instrument panel, I'm missing two light bulb holders. On all of the parts sites I looked at, they don't carry the original type with the spring, that you twist to remove. They only carry a twist in type, which is smaller, and I'm afraid it won't work. I don't trust these guys most of the time.

Also, I need a washer fluid tank. I ordered one, but it was too big. I've attached a picture (I think) of the old and new. I need the older, smaller version, and the valve on top, where the air is pumped in and fluid goes out. The one I have is cracked.

If anyone has these parts used and are willing to part with them, give me a price. If not used, and you know where I can find these things new, Forrest will appreciate it.

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Dave

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MBman's picture
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I have all of the light sockets, PM me with the details of what you need. Can't help you with the tank, and just sold the cap.

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I have the whole cluster for sale, with those spring socket bulbs you are describing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4636094089&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT

With the washer bottle, do you know what years cars it can come off of?

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dcashour's picture
Belmar, NJ
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1983 240D
1999 E300 Turbo Diesel

I don't know what years would have the same bottle size (68 to 73 I suppose). All of my parts sources and Mercedes dealer offer only the larger one on the left in the photo. I need the smaller one. Since I don't think I'll find it, I'll likely relocate the larger one to another location in the engine compartment, and rerun my rubber hoses. If you've got one, check it against the picture and that should tell you right away. The smaller one has "VDO" on it. Thanks

I've already got the instrument cluster squared away--thanks.

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Dave

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redghost's picture
Seattle, WA
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1995 300D
1974 450SL
1972 220D

Dave, I still have a spare tank. Let me look hard and rattle my cage in a day or so to make sure I found it.

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clay

2002 S430 - Victor, White Tie & Tails
1974 450SL Frosch, my little froggy prince, after meeting a bunch of toads
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran and ran
1995 E300D - Cleo - Killed by a Suzuki Vitara
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers

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dcashour's picture
Belmar, NJ
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1983 240D
1999 E300 Turbo Diesel

Clay: I'm in the process of making a bracket to fix the tank to the firewall over by the right tire well, but I'll hold off until you take a look for a spare. Thanks a lot.

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Dave

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Looking for advice on a 1971 220D

I found a 1971 220D with 50,000 original miles. No a/c, 4 spd manual shift on the column. Manual sunroof. Car has surface rust on top of R front fender, rocker panels, and rear fender wells. No holes. Interior needs a good cleaning, but other wise is in excellent condition. The car was originally purchased by a German military officer and found it's way to the US. Current owner is the 3rd and drove it daily up until 3 years ago. The owner believes she gets 25 mpg. I would have thought it would be better that this. Any comments? I'm considering making an offer on this beauty, but am a little conserned that it could be a maintenance nightmare and be a money pit since it sat idle for 3 years. Need I be concerned? I'm looking to drive it over 200 miles daily through the week. I attempted to jump start it today but was unsucessful. Not enough juice to turn her over good. I did get a good glow plug indication on the dash. You can actually see a metal element heat up cherry red on the dash. Should I be concerned starting the engine with the old fuel in the system. How about front end parts. The car is 36 years old, but hardly driven. Anything tobe concerned about here. I really like this car and believe it could be daily driver for me. Any comments and advice is greatly appreciated. How much should I offer for this challenge?

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MBman's picture
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at 50K it just out of the break in period :D
Are you sure its not 150K? I would ask
The car is basically bombproof, providing that the rust is not an issue. Sitting for three years is not all hat concerning ( mine sat for 12) but that does mean you will need all new filters, fluids and perhaps rubber hoses ect. IF you are handy with a wrench these are very easy to work on, parts readily availabel, good luck
what are you going to offer?

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She said $1,500, but I believe I can justify a lesser offer around $500. That's where I'm going to start. It needs a battery. Another MBCA member commented that a neglected diesel engine will be difficult to recover. The radiator was low if not empty. It was also recommended to change the engine oil prior to starting the engine. "Set the valve lash (not sure exactly what that is or entails) and flush the fuel system" "Fuel lines and injection pump are most likely plugged with old diesel fuel. Drain the fuel tank and replace the tank strainer and engine fuel filters." Any advice on accomplishing these tasks is appreciated. Would it be alright to put a good battery in it and try and get it running prior to flushing the fuel system? I'll check the breaks out and get a good look underneath. The current owner has kept good records since she's had it. From what I can see the 80,000km (50,000 mi) is original. Is there anything unique about this particular 220D being a 4 speed manual on the column? What type of fuel economy might I expect? I've been told around 25 mpg. Where can I go to learn more about this particular model/year? Any information is appreciated.

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steve christensen's picture
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220d

My '72 220D Automatic still gets around 25mpg around town. When it was in its prime, I remember 27 in mixed driving being about the standard. The manual tran would be a nice feature, as you really end up driving the shift points of the transmission to avoid being rammed by suv's. Suspect trashed brakes from the set up period. I just "unmothballed" mine after a 3 year storage, and found myself down to one working caliper amongst all. Also, take some agressive measures to rid the tank of biological gunk; put some bio-con or suitable other and run all the old fuel out that you can followed by fresh diesel and new fliters (there are 2). I would recommend an additional filter change after the 3rd tank of fuel.
Steve
'72 220D "Ole Blue"
'95 E320 Cabriolet "Green hornet"

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redghost's picture
Seattle, WA
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1995 300D
1974 450SL
1972 220D

You can start the car on diesel purge or a gallon of fresh fuel. Purge would be best, since it would cleanse the IP and injectors. Fresh fluids are best to do, instead of trying to sqeeze life out of used up fluids. The investment is minimal for the chance to not screw up the engine.

I am not too happy to hear about the coolant. That may mean there is a head gasket leak and you might have hydro lock in cylinders. If so, you will have a rusted up engine. Best to figure out where the coolant went.

Rust is not a real deal breaker. It is a problem with these cars, since there is minimal rust proofing done, and once they start, you are in a race to drive it before it turns to powder. Deal with the rust really soon, or you will have large holes. I found some minor surface rust in the trunk. Once I started sanding and trying to get some bare metal to use a rust converter, I had holes the size of quarters everywhere. Had to weld a new 16 gauge sheet of steel in.

A well running 615 manual will get between 27 and 30 mpg on a good 50 cetane fuel. Plugged filters, bad fuel, carbon in the engine, stuck brakes, and old fluids will reduce that significantly. You should be able to hit max 87mph and cruise at 75 all day.

I advise sucking the old fuel out, get fresh. Change your fluids, since old stuff will be prone to corrode engine and transmission parts with h20 it has gathered in the three years it sat. Mobil 1 has a full line of fluids, from engine oil, to ATF, diff and even headlight fluid, special euro blend blinker fluids, or the very limited dash and glovebox lube.

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clay

2002 S430 - Victor, White Tie & Tails
1974 450SL Frosch, my little froggy prince, after meeting a bunch of toads
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran and ran
1995 E300D - Cleo - Killed by a Suzuki Vitara
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers

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Where can I get diesel purge. I assume the engine will start and run on diesel purge for short periods. To do this can I feed the diesel purge to the fuel pump with a temporary hose? As far as removing the old fuel what's the best way to do this? Any chance it will siphon out.

The engine turned over when jumped from my truck. I jumped the battery that's in the car which is completely dead so I didn't get much juice through it, but enough to turn the engine over. I took this as a good sign. If there is a blown head gasket wouldn't I see H2O in the oil? For now could I fill the radiator with H2O to see if there are any obvious leaks. Do you see any problem starting the engine with water in radiator?

The car has been garaged since '85. It looks like it wll clean up real nice. How difficult would it be to find a R front fender? This one could be worked, but just in case. The present owner did have the car rust proofed. Floor boards and trunk looked good on initial inspection, but it was raining so I didn't really get into it too deep. I'm looking at it again tomorrow.

The car was maiintained well since '85 with records of oil changes. I haven't looked them over to see what the interval was. They used Valvoline 10W 40. I've read the threads on oil. Sounds like Mobil 1 is the way to go. What grade is recommended for a 615? Where can I get oil filters?

Any advice on methods/procedures on changing fluids would be appreciated. Also advice on service manual(s), valve specs, and adjustment procedures will be necessary. I did see a thread on valve lash on a 240D. I would think the procedure might be simular.

Thanks for taking the time to assist me here. I'd like to make this my daily driver. Wish it had cruise control.

Stu

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dcashour's picture
Belmar, NJ
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1983 240D
1999 E300 Turbo Diesel

For diesel purge, you may find it at an auto parts store. If not, go to performanceproducts.com. For instructions and a pictorial, go to dieselgiant.com. You'll need to make up some makeshift tubes. Probably the best way to remove old fuel is to drain the tank. I haven't done this yet, but I need to do it.

Temporarily using water in the cooling system should't be a problem--just watch the temp guage (if it works).

I think many of your parts questions can be answered by conducting searches on the web.. There are lots of places to find parts, even a fender, perhaps from some of the guys on this forum. Also check ebay.

For oil, search the 114/115 form and the diesel discussions--there's more info than you want!

Definitely get the original service manual if you can find it (maybe ebay), and the one available from MB-USA on cd. They are invaluable.

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Dave

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I ended up putting 5 gal fresh diesel fuel and several ounces of "Diesel Kleen" in the tank. Topped the radiator off with antifreeze. It took about 1/2 a gallon. Water pump looks like it has a minor leak (drip) at the shaft. That's where the fluid went. Put a battery from my boat in it and it started right up, idles fine. It has a idle adjust knob on the dash. It smoked quite a bit, but decreased the more the engine ran. Everything works including the blower and the clock. Brakes arn't quite right. The left front caliper is stuck. I have maintenance records from 1985. Oil was changed every 3,000 miles. The records indicate that the car hasn't been driven since 2000. Owner says she did drive it in 2003, but not many miles. I started to remove the left front caliper. Not sure what I'm doing. I Loosened the 4 bolts (15mm I think) at the front of the caliper. It split into two halves and break fluid started coming out of the bottom. Is this normal? Now it's time to confess. I drove it home a short distance. Breaks were fine until I was about 2 miles from home. That's when the left front froze. I got it home, but the wheel assembly was pretty hot. I know from flying C-130's in the military that breaks will actually reach their peak temperature several minutes after the friction stops. This was no different. I put water on it until it cooled down. Where do I go from here? The gas peddle needs some work. It's rusted at the bottom where it attaches to the floor. Accelerator also sticks a little. I moved the linkage at the engine and can see it hanging up. I'm going to try and clean and lubricate all that I can get to. I'm pleased that it started easily after sitting so long. That's a good thing. Any help on the brakes is appreciated. I'm going to search other forums for info, but if anyone wants to put it here or direct me that would be great.

Braked but not broke yet!

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if you split the caliper then its probably toast, you can get rebuild kit but best to just purchase remanufactured, I would buy in pairs. Many after market sources available. How did the rotors look?
If its running I would now warm her up and dump all the fluids and put in new.
I have a good right fender
Check the hoses to the calipers to makle sure they are not colapsed. I would also drain the brake fluid flush and refill
good luck. Sounds like a winner, how about some pictures?

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I was able to get the inner cylinder moving, and the outter retracted, but unable to get it back out by hand (using a screw driver). Probably not a good idea. Rotors are rusty, and probably could be turned but it might be wise to go with new. Maintenance records indicate that the calipers, pads and rotors were replaced back in 1986, but only driven 3000km since then. Pads look new. Preveous owner now says she only drove it a few times 3 years ago, and records indicate that the last time it was driven was Oct. 2000, so it's sat for nearly 6 yrs. This is going to be my daily driver (105 mi one way) so I'd probably be better off with new or re-man calipers, rotors, and hoses on the front. I haven't looked at the rears yet. I've searched a little on line for parts. New calipers $240 - $311. Re-man $68. Any recommendations on a source for these parts? Brands to go with....stay away from? How about break fluid? Will any Dot 4 be ok?

How about that fender $$. Not sure if I really need it, but nice to know one's out there if I do. I'll do my best to get some pics posted.

What information do I need to provide when shopping/ordering parts? And where do I find these numbers? Chassis Serial # 115.110 ????, Engine # 615.912 ????, and what do they mean?

The car cleaned up pretty nice. Has some bubbled paint down low, and like I said on top of R front fender. All in all I'm happy and would like to start driving soon. Thaks for any and all information, and advice.

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http://www.autohausaz.com/mercedes-auto-parts/index.html

http://www.buymbparts.com/

These are two of the best places I have worked with and are great people.
You can talk to Randy on line and he is very knowlegable. Re man calipers are fine, they have the same waranty as the new.
The fender would be cheap, probably looking at less than $75. I am not sure of the shipping. I am in Kentucky. It is brown.
If I were you I would put my money into mechanicals for now, save body stuff for later. I have lots of used parts.

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I'll hold off on the body for now, and concentrate on the mechanical. R rear brakes appear to be ok. I haven't varified their operation, but plan on re-connecting the front calipers to do so. I have a bleeder screw broke off of the R front. I'm going to replace them and don't have new yet. Could I isolate the front brake lines at the master cylinder? Any idea what thread size this would take?
Haven't checked the emergency brake yet either.

Problem with the R rear hub. Only 3 studs holding the wheel on, and 2 of them are stripped, 1 empty, and 1 broke off. Any options short of replacing the hub?
The L side has 1 missing stud. I haven't taken the wheel off, so I'm not sure if the others are good. As far as I can tell it got new tires in 1989. Surprisingly, they still look good. Whoever put them on probably cross threaded the studs with an impact wrench. I doubt they informed the owner. Doesn't really matter as it's my problem now! How difficult a job is replacing the hub?

Inner CV boots are wide open. I would think it would be better, and econmical to replace the entire shaft rather than just the boots. Any comments?

Instrument lights don't work. Do they come on with the lights? Any illumination adjustment? Haven't checked fuses. Hope it's that easy.

No high beam on the L.

I started a list, but don't have it in front of me right now. This is enough for now I believe. I'm sure there are threads covering some of this. I just have to find them.

Any and all insight is welcomed and appreciated. I was hoping to get parts by this weekend. With the 3 day holiday, I might have a chance to get it on the road.

I'll check out the "parts" web sites. I've looked at Autohaus b4.

Any instructions on posting pics?

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http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=134622

read this if you get time, it will address most of the issues you will need to go through, mine is a gasser however.
I drove mine with 3 brakes but not very far or fast. Not sure it is a good idea to block off front lines but is possible at the master unit. It uses metric threads for the brake lines. I got mine at advance auto parts locally.
Emergency brake is cable driven and runs pads in the rear hubs. I would be more concerned with the studs, you may be able to re thread them and probably could get the pieces out with a counterdrill
I have extra lug nuts
removing rear hubs is a bear of a job and best left to pros, front is easy
Instrument lights are all tied to a reostat on the dash, this corrodes and does not allow current to the bulbs, easy fix but have to remove instrument panel
High beam is probably headlight and not electrical.
Good luck

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Local Advanced Auto Parts was able to get front calipers (ATE) with pads, and hardware for $73.00 exchange. I should have them this Friday. I'm going to order rotors, and hoses on line today. It would be nice to get them this week.

I've determined that the wheel studs are 12mm. I'm going to run a hand tap through the female threads on the hub, and try new studs. I hope there is enough metal to make a good thread. New hub is $3xx, and a lot of work.

I also need to replace the CV boots. New axle is over $300 as well and not necessary.

Oil change, and new fuel filters. I don't see the in line plastic fuel filter. I see what I believe is the hand primer, but no in line filer.

How do I determine my Chassis #. I believe it's 10-205577. The VIN is 11511010205577.

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on my gasser there is no pre filter (although I put one in) I would think a diesel would have one, should be before the main filter.

The engine model and serial number is located on the left rear of the engine block, below the cylinder head on a flat spot of the block. The VIN number is located on the driver side door latch pillar on a steel number tag, and on the driver side window pillar (betweent he "A" pillar and windshield) on a metal tag. You should have both the engine and VIN numbers handy as Mercedes has a tendency to make running changes, and everything is based on the serial number.
vintage Benz will have a VIN which is all numbers. The first 3 digits tell you which chasis, the second set of 3 tell which variation of the chasis. The next two digits tell you if it is an auto or stick and whether it is left hand or right hand drive with the remainder of the digits being the specific production number.
typical VIN is 113.044 10 023456. 113 means the chassis type for all three of these cars, 044 means 280SL (042 is 230SL, 043 is 250SL); in the next position 1 means left hand drive, 2 means RHD; next 0 is manual tranny, 2 is auto, the last six numbers are the build sequence number that runs from 1 for the first (say 280SL) to the last one made of that model.

The VIN is on the registration, on a plate on the car, and probably in several other places depending on the particular model.

There is also an Aufbau (build) number shown on the data card. This number is stamped into some body parts such as the hood to show that the part was original to that particular car but this number is not used to order parts.

Hope that helps

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dcashour's picture
Belmar, NJ
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1983 240D
1999 E300 Turbo Diesel

Clay: did you find (or look for) the washer fluid tank yet? I'm about ready to install the larger one on the firewall. I made a bracket for it, and I'm ready to go, but I'd still rather have the proper fitting one, if you can find one for me.

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Dave

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redghost's picture
Seattle, WA
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Vehicles
2002 S430
1995 300D
1974 450SL
1972 220D

Sorry for the delay. I seem to have lost the part and am not able to get to the one box under and behind the hood and trunk spares

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clay

2002 S430 - Victor, White Tie & Tails
1974 450SL Frosch, my little froggy prince, after meeting a bunch of toads
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran and ran
1995 E300D - Cleo - Killed by a Suzuki Vitara
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers

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