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Installing under hood pad

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monarchd's picture
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I'm in the process of replacing my under hood pad since mine deteriorated on my SL500. I was wondering if anybody had a good way to remove the old foam? I managed to remove most of it but the old glue is still holding on to the old foam. I've tried scraping it but the glue is really strong. Is there a way I can remove the glue with chemicals? Also what spray adhesives should I use? Thanks.

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Ferdman's picture
Chester Springs, PA
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1998 E320 Sedan
1995 E320 Sedan
1991 300CE

Do a Search under "hood pad" ... this topic has been addressed numerous times.

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Fred Hoelzle

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George Murphy's picture
Oak Ridge, TN
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1999 C43 AMG

Here's my article on that job:

Hood Pad Replacement – 129 SLs

MBCA Section member Brenda’s 1992 500SL was all ready for our local Concours when she found the hood pad on her beloved SL was in tatters after 12 years of service – see before picture.

She called me to order a new pad and I offered to install it as there was little time to get it into a shop for pad replacement in time for the Concours.

Here’s how to do it:
On 129 SLs, the front edge of the hood pad is held in place by 14 plastic push pins. Order 14 pins (MB part # 123 990 02 92) when you order the pad (Part # 129 680 20 25).

There is no need to remove the hood; simply throw an old bed sheet over the engine to catch debris. (See photo) Remove the 14 push pins – don’t even try to salvage them – they are usually so brittle from age and heat that the head breaks off and you have to push the inner pin all the way through to allow withdrawal of the outer pin. Be careful not to push too hard and cause a reverse dent in the hood.

Scrape off as much of the old pad as possible with a putty knife. Then use a stiff wire brush to remove as much old pad material as possible. If the hood braces are loose from the hood, re-glue them first with GE RTV Silicon so they stick to the underside of the hood. Make sure it is dry before slamming the hood closed or all is for nothing. Wipe down underhood surfaces with acetone to remove any oils.

Use 3M Hood Pad adhesive 08090 (not 08080) for HOOD PAD applications - ask your body shop for it. The stuff is usually about $16 a can - for 123, 124 and 126 cars you may need two cans - one for the pad and one for the underside of the hood.

Trial fit the pad and mark with chalk alignment marks. Spray 3 coats of adhesive on both surfaces according to 3M instructions. No need to completely cover the pad and underside of the hood – apply adhesive to the areas where it was at manufacture.

First attach the pad with the 14 plastic push pins starting at the front center and working outward – don’t allow the pad to stick anywhere else yet or you may damage it pulling it loose. Next attach the center of the pad by pressing it into place all the way to the rear of the hood. Then carefully spread it outward from the center to the sides without wrinkling. Once the pad is in place, I use a narrow paint roller pad to press it securely all over the underside.

See finished job – car looks like new and ready for Concours.

I have attached the full article w/pictures

__________________

Regards,

George Murphy

MBCA Technical Director

865-482-9175

1999 C43 AMG

Anonymous
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Anonymous's picture

George Murphy wrote:
Here's my article on that job:

Hood Pad Replacement – 129 SLs

MBCA Section member Brenda’s 1992 500SL was all ready for our local Concours when she found the hood pad on her beloved SL was in tatters after 12 years of service – see before picture.

She called me to order a new pad and I offered to install it as there was little time to get it into a shop for pad replacement in time for the Concours.

Here’s how to do it:
On 129 SLs, the front edge of the hood pad is held in place by 14 plastic push pins. Order 14 pins (MB part # 123 990 02 92) when you order the pad (Part # 129 680 20 25).

There is no need to remove the hood; simply throw an old bed sheet over the engine to catch debris. (See photo) Remove the 14 push pins – don’t even try to salvage them – they are usually so brittle from age and heat that the head breaks off and you have to push the inner pin all the way through to allow withdrawal of the outer pin. Be careful not to push too hard and cause a reverse dent in the hood.

Scrape off as much of the old pad as possible with a putty knife. Then use a stiff wire brush to remove as much old pad material as possible. If the hood braces are loose from the hood, re-glue them first with GE RTV Silicon so they stick to the underside of the hood. Make sure it is dry before slamming the hood closed or all is for nothing. Wipe down underhood surfaces with acetone to remove any oils.

Use 3M Hood Pad adhesive 08090 (not 08080) for HOOD PAD applications - ask your body shop for it. The stuff is usually about $16 a can - for 123, 124 and 126 cars you may need two cans - one for the pad and one for the underside of the hood.

Trial fit the pad and mark with chalk alignment marks. Spray 3 coats of adhesive on both surfaces according to 3M instructions. No need to completely cover the pad and underside of the hood – apply adhesive to the areas where it was at manufacture.

First attach the pad with the 14 plastic push pins starting at the front center and working outward – don’t allow the pad to stick anywhere else yet or you may damage it pulling it loose. Next attach the center of the pad by pressing it into place all the way to the rear of the hood. Then carefully spread it outward from the center to the sides without wrinkling. Once the pad is in place, I use a narrow paint roller pad to press it securely all over the underside.

See finished job – car looks like new and ready for Concours.

I have attached the full article w/pictures

Thanks George for that detailed write up :)!

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Might want to use a PLASTIC scraper instead of a putty knife...The Plastic wont scratch the metal...

I Used the MB Plastic wedge to scrape the old hood pads...

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BJonesFL's picture
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Remember to cover the engine, air intake below windshield, and fenders with plastic drop cloth. The crumbling pad material gets everywhere! I also used 3M Adhesive and Decal Remover to get stubborn pieces of material and old glue off the hood. If you do use this or another solvent, remember to wash off the surface (any carwash soap) prior to applying new glue. I agree about the plastic scraper instead of wire brush. This job is sooo much easier with 2 people and takes about a 6-pack. Have fun-

Bob

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Bob Jones

Bradenton, FL

'99 SL500

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BJonesFL wrote:
This job is sooo much easier with 2 people and takes about a 6-pack. Have fun-

Bob

HaHaHa...a 6 pack will definitely make it easier :D!

Thanks all for your replies :)!

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