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brake job?

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marlinspike's picture
Hampton, VA
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I've replaced pads before on my 380SE (easy), but now I'm looking to replace the pads, rotors, brake lines, and flush the fluids. What kind of brake bleeder should I get? Is there anything I should know that the service manual doesn't tell me (everything is easy in the service manuals, nothing is ever easy in real life...except for replacing pads). What tools should I have? Any tips?
Thanks,
Richard

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1985 380SE 5.6

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Melvin K lofton's picture
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brake job

I recently dod a complete brake job on my 88 300 SE. It included rebuilding calipers - cleaning, replacing o rings and dust boots. If calipers have not been overhauled for a few years the pistons can hang up and brakes will not work properly. Need compressed air and a vise to remove pistons. Takes a bit of mechanical "horse sense" to handle this job. Caliper kits are MUCH cheaper than new calipers. I did not need a bleeder for bleeding my brakes - simply left bleeder valve open on each re-assembled brake caliper while working on next wheel. IMPORTANT - kep master cylinder full while doing this. As for changing fluid I sucked all the fluid I could from the MC with an old turkey baster then filled with new fluid. As each caliper was being flushed the lines were also cleaned of old fluid. I recommend origingl equipment pads - less likely go squeal. Also note the position of pistons - they must go in with recessed portion in proper place. Unless your rotors are worn beyond limit, no reason to buy new ones. If you need more info about my very successful rebuild just e-ail me and I'll tell you how I handled any step in the process.
Good Luck - Mel Lofton

Former Member
marlinspike's picture
Hampton, VA
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Joined: December 2nd, 2004

Posts:
1257

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I'm going to slotted rotors (still not sure, stoptech or ATE powerdisc) and Axxis Ultimate pads. The thing I am mainly worried about is bleeding since I don't like the thought of air in the system, and replacing the rotors (i.e. pulling the caps and all that), but as it turns out my parents will not allow me to mess with brake fluid, so I guess nevermind, I'll just head over to my mechanic. They also won't let me work under a lifted car, even though when I do it I use ramps designed to hold a vehicle up to 12,000lbs and 3.5 ton jack stands and a 3.5 ton hydraulic jack, somehow that isn't safe enough :rolleyes: So that means I won't be able to replace the front flex disk myself either...oh well, this quickly became very expensive.

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1985 380SE 5.6

Jim Grillot (not verified)
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Jim Grillot's picture

If you do much brake bleeding, especially without a helper to pump the brakes, consider a Motive Products Power Bleeder Pro. Best price I found was Apex Performance.

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