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'87 300sdl fuel primer pump question

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monarchd's picture
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Does the '87 300sdl have a manual fuel primer pump? I searched the posts and found a reference to one on an '83, but when I looked in the suggested location on that post, I couldn't locate one. I've followed the fuel line but can't find anything that looks like what was described (either a white or black capped manual pump).

Thanks in advance,

Ned

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There is lots of advice about how long to crank it. The UK manual, because I looked, says to crank for up to one minute with gas pedel depressed, until the engine fires and it stays running.

However I wonder about the stress on the starter. Cranking for 20 seconds and letting it cool down for 5 minutes might be better, but I had to resort to what was in the manual to get mine to start after replacing the main filter. Sure fill filter with diesel before hand, however you try that somewhere other than your driveway garage, dealing with the replacing the filter on the road is fun enough on a 603.

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Pre-fill the main fuel filter with either Diesel Purge or clean diesel fuel. A little sloppy, but cuts the start time down to 15-20 seconds. Try and keep RPM high (3,000-4,00RPM) at start up. That ought to do it!

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Follow-up

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I replaced the filter this morning (a little messy coming out). Because of that, I opted for not pre-filling the new one. After a bit (less than a minute, seems longer than it really is) the engine kicked over. I've been running straight WVO for about 40 gallons now. Was getting a lose of power under load. Problem solved with the new filter. Marshall had mentioned in another post that the WVO would probably "clean" out some of the years of diesel gunk and a new filter would probably be in order in the not too distant future. He was right on the mark . . .again. Thanks again.

Does anyone know of a non-OEM replacement for the primary fuel filter?

Ned

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Filter changes and other questions

Hello everyone. I recently purchased my first Mercedes - a 1986 300 SDL in good condition. Anticipating high costs, I plan on doing minor maintanence myself. I have a few questions:
1) How crucial is a torque wrench?
2) Are there any tricks to changing oil and fuel filters? (I plan on needing to possibly change fuel filters soon as I transition to 3) How much should I expect to pay for a mechanic to change hoses, etc. should I run B100?
4) What is a good source for a good repair manual for my car? (I'd prefer a book, not a CD or download)
I've been in the habit of taking my previous vehicles to shops for routine things like the aforementioned, but would like to do them myself. I will purchase only quality filters and recommended fluids.

I haven't put the car up yet, and couldn't find the oil pan and drain plug when I crawled partway under.
5) Where will it be please?
Thank you all for sharing your wisdom. I've already learned a lot about these beautiful machines and the potential use of Biodiesel.
Richard Clifton - Newbie

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1987 300TDT

Bend300SDL wrote:

1) How crucial is a torque wrench?

One maintenance item that really requires one, in my opinion, is renewing the automatic transmission fluid/filter. The pan bolts call for a really low torque setting, something like 8 ft-lbs, and if you over-torque the pan will warp and leak.

The tire lug-bolts are supposed to be torqued to ~80 ft-lbs, so if you pull the tires to check brakes or rotate the tires, you'll need a wrench to put them back on. Failure to heed = may warp your front rotors.

Bend300SDL wrote:

2) Are there any tricks to changing oil and fuel filters? (I plan on needing to possibly change fuel filters soon as I transition to

I prefer to extract the engine oil via the dipstick using a pump because a) that's how MB dealerships do it, b) more oil is removed than by draining, and c) much less mess and fuss. You can make your own extractor with tubing, vacuum chamber (5 gallon bucket) and a vacuum cleaner for a few dollars, or get a Topsider from George Murphy or other source (use Google) for about $50.

When changing main fuel filter, note that it is NOT a spin-on; loosen the bolt on top of the filter holder. Fill the filter with clean diesel fuel prior to starting the car to reduce fuel system priming requirement.

Bend300SDL wrote:

3) How much should I expect to pay for a mechanic to change hoses, etc. should I run B100?

This topic is subject of much debate. Natural rubber is apparently susceptible to failure when using biodiesel, probably from methanol that wasn't completely removed. Synthetic rubber aka 'viton' is resistant. Almost all fuel lines made since the mid '80s are synthetic (I've heard), so your car may already be fine. The most common leaking points are the low pressure return lines, and enough new cloth-covered MB line will cost about $20 or more; I'd recommend you have this line replaced with new, and then just watch for leaks and replace lines when/if they start to leak.

Bend300SDL wrote:

4) What is a good source for a good repair manual for my car? (I'd prefer a book, not a CD or download)

Look on Ebay or other used book sellers, get the real MB manuals. Note that there will be an engine manual, a chassis manual (or two), an electrical trouble shooting manual, perhaps an AC manual, and very little coverage for the automatic transmission. There may even be a maintenance manual.

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Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD, 334k miles (head is off, getting ready to install a different used head...)
'95 E300 Diesel, 348k miles (daily driving duty)
'73 Balboa 20

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When changing main fuel filter, note that it is NOT a spin-on; loosen the bolt on top of the filter holder. Fill the filter with clean diesel fuel prior to starting the car to reduce fuel system priming requirement.

I went to AutohausArizona to get filters. Both the Bosch and Mann fuel filters say Spin-On style when I search for 86 300 sdl filters. Also, I've read pre-filling is not necessary based on the previous replies :confused: Thanks again!

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I see several bolt heads around the filter. Will I be only removing and replacing the one centered over the filter for removal/replacement. I apologize for the questions as I don't yet have a manual

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