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560SL valve cover removal

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Former Member
Sokoloff's picture
Ocean Isle Beach, NC
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2003 SLK320
1983 240D

Started removing the valve covers on my 560SL tonight to replace the cam oiler plastic bits and do the chain guides. Ran into a question on the driver's side valve cover. See attached photos. It looks like both the hard line for the brake booster shown in the first photo and the two lines that appear to connect to the AC line (shown in the second photo) have to come off. I suspect that there is no issue with the booster line since my guess is that it is a vacuum line only and will not cause me to have to bleed the brake system. However, what about the two lines connecting to the AC line? What are they and do they have to come off? Will that open up my AC system and cause me to lose all my R12?

Thanks.

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valve cover 002.JPG134.62 KB
valve cover 001.JPG144.47 KB
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Len

'59 220S cabriolet

'83 240D 348,500 miles original owner

'99 E300D 170,000 miles

'03 SLK320 27,500 miles

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PaulSpringmann's picture
Bentonville, AR
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1987 300SDL
1973 280SE
Re: 560SL valve cover removal

Those two lines are fuel lines; there is an integral fuel cooler on that low side AC line. You can just remove the fuel lines at the cooler and move them out of the way. I was confused at first as well when I pulled the valve covers on my 560SL.

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Tech 08's picture
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Re: 560SL valve cover removal

Hi Len On the brake line can be disconnected from the booster and turned up,the fuel lines should raise up enough to clear .if not remember there is pressure in thelines and tank,undo the fuel cap and open the lines carefully.Tech 08

Former Member
Sokoloff's picture
Ocean Isle Beach, NC
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2003 SLK320
1983 240D
Re: 560SL valve cover removal

Thanks guys - your replies cleared things up for the most part. On the two fuel lines, thanks for the reminder to undo the fuel cap. I had it in my mind to do that before I started the job, but could very well have forgotten when I actually did the deed. So does it make a difference which end of the fuel lines I disconnect?

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Len

'59 220S cabriolet

'83 240D 348,500 miles original owner

'99 E300D 170,000 miles

'03 SLK320 27,500 miles

Former Member
Sokoloff's picture
Ocean Isle Beach, NC
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Joined: March 29th, 1995

Posts:
2553

Vehicles
2003 SLK320
1983 240D
Re: 560SL valve cover removal

Thanks again - got the fuel lines and brake booster line off and out of the way today with little spillage or mess. Now have both valve covers off. See my other post about the condition of the valve train/camshaft.

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Len

'59 220S cabriolet

'83 240D 348,500 miles original owner

'99 E300D 170,000 miles

'03 SLK320 27,500 miles

Former Member
Robert Bivona's picture
Edmond, OK
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1989 560SL
This thread is still good for

This thread is still good for us newbies. Changed valve cover gaskets today in record time. I was dreading the driver side but it turned out to be pretty easy once I removed the fuel and brake booster line.

Another question. I torqued both covers to spec. Once I put everything back together I went back and rechecked torque. Long story short had to re torque. Assuming this is normal with new rubber. Any thoughts?

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Bob Bivona 405-245-7603 89 560SL. 40K

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gerryvz's picture
The Woodlands, TX
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1995 E320 Wagon
1994 E500
1990 560SEL
1989 560SEC
Yes, with new gaskets often

Yes, with new gaskets often you should wait a day or three after initial torquing (don't take much, barely snug down) and then tighten just a smidge from there.  ALWAYS use new copper crush washers, though if the gasket is in good condition (still pliable) you can re-use it.

Quite often valve cover gasket leaks can be solved with new gaskets + crush washers, and a CAREFUL installation of the new gaskets.  Hopefully an ignorant mechanic didn't torque the cover down too much in the past, and permanently warp it.  If an M116/M117 valve cover is warped, it will never seal right again, and a new or used one is in order.  New gaskets are cheap and it's a good idea to buy a couple or three sets of copper crush washers.

Cheers,
Gerry

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